Stars are easier than star trails.
Start with stars.
You can easily photograph a starry sky if you're away from city lights.
Go to Digital SLR.
Go to Point-and-shoot.
Here are some suggested exposure settings, at ISO 800, with a focal length of 50mm.
The settings are starting points.
Experiment!
| f/1.4 or f/1.8 | f/2 | f/2.8 | f/4 | |
| Shutter Speed | 4 sec. | 8 sec. | 15 sec. | 30 sec. |
Do the following.
1) Use a tripod, or set the camera on a pillow, bean bag, or ?
2) Set the white balance to the Daylight setting, the sun icon.
3) If you're using a variable-aperture zoom lens (most zooms), use a wide-angle focal length, such as 18mm.
A wide-angle focal length lets in more light.
4) Focus on something far away, and then switch the lens to manual focus using the switch on or near the lens.
Don't confuse the M of manual focus, with the M of manual exposure on the exposure mode dial.
Locate the manual-focus ring on the lens.
The manual-focus ring isn't the zoom ring.
The zoom ring changes the lens focal length.
The manual-focus ring, which is often at the end of the lens, is narrower.
You may need to tape the manual-focus ring to keep it from shifting during long exposures.
5) Set the exposure mode dial to M, Manual exposure.
6) Set the lens opening and shutter speed to the above values.
Some cameras have one control knob, other cameras have two control knobs.
If your camera has one knob, press and hold the button with the aperture icon, and move the knob.
If your camera has one knob, move the knob to set the shutter speed.
If your camera has two knobs, move the knob that controls the lens opening.
If your camera has two knobs, move the knob that controls the shutter speed.
7) Trip the shutter with the camera's self-timer, or a remote release.
Go to Useful Information.
Your point-and-shoot camera must be capable of manual exposure.
Check your camera instruction manual for how to set the lens opening and shutter speed.
Here's a suggested exposure setting at ISO 800.
The setting is a starting point.
Experiment!
| f/2.8 | |
| Shutter Speed | 15 sec. |
Do the following.
1) Use a tripod, or set the camera on a pillow, bean bag, or ?
2) Set the white balance to the Daylight setting, the sun icon.
3) Zoom the lens to a wide focal length.
A wide-angle focal length lets in more light.
4) Focus on infinity.
Your camera may have a button that cycles between flower and mountain icons.
If so, use the mountain-icon setting.
5) Set the exposure mode dial to M, Manual exposure.
6) Set the lens opening and shutter speed to the above values.
7) Trip the shutter with the camera's self-timer, or a remote release.
Because stars are point light sources, exposure is determined by the actual area of the aperture, not by the lens opening.
Lens opening, the f/stop, is a ratio of the focal length and the lens opening number.
Lens opening is not the area of the aperture.
For example, a 50mm lens at f/1.4 will give the same exposure as a 100mm lens at f/2.8, of a point-light-source subject.
That's because the area of their apertures are the same.
On the table below, look for the two 1002 values.
The red area values are for the above example.
Other values with like colors will also produce the same exposure, as the areas are the same.
The areas below are square millimeters.
Go to What's a f/stop?.
| 18mm | 25mm | 50mm | 100mm | 150mm | 200mm | |
| f/1.4 | 250 | 1002 | ||||
| f/2 | 123 | 491 | ||||
| f/2.8 | 32 | 63 | 250 | 1002 | 2254 | 4007 |
| f/4 | 16 | 31 | 123 | 491 | 1104 | 1963 |
| f/5.6 | 8 | 16 | 63 | 250 | 564 | 1002 |
| f/8 | 4 | 8 | 31 | 123 | 276 | 491 |
| f/11 | 2 | 4 | 16 | 65 | 146 | 260 |
| f/16 | 1 | 2 | 8 | 31 | 69 | 123 |
The values are from Peter Cox's Aperture Area Calculator.
Aperture area is computed using the following formula.
Area = Pi (f/2N)2
Where f is focal length and N is the f/stop number.
The stars will become streaks with longer shutter speeds.
The shutter speed needed to prevent streaking varies according to the focal length.
The apparent movement of the stars across the frame will be less at a wide-angle focal length, and more at a telephoto focal length.
Therefore, as the focal length increases, the shutter speed must increase.
Use the following formula to determine the maximum shutter speed for avoiding blur.
1,000 ÷ Focal Length = Maximum Shutter Speed
|
Focal Length |
Maximum Shutter Speed (Seconds) |
|
18mm |
56 |
|
24mm |
42 |
|
50mm |
20 |
|
100mm |
10 |
|
150mm |
7 |
|
200mm |
5 |
|
300mm |
3 |
You'll get more stars when using wider lens openigs.
And, if you use a wide-angle focal length, with its concomitant longer possible shutter speeds, more stars are recorded.
|
Focal Length |
Shutter Speed (Seconds) |
# of Stars |
|
18mm |
56 |
More Stars ↓
↑ Fewer Stars |
|
24mm |
42 |
|
|
50mm |
20 |
|
|
100mm |
10 |
|
|
150mm |
7 |
|
|
200mm |
5 |
|
|
300mm |
3 |
Your camera may have a long-shutter speed noise reduction feature.
Check your camera instruction manual.
Use a digital SLR camera for star trails.
Star trails all by themselves are boring.
You need something in the foreground that adds to your photograph.
Look for:
• A tree.
• Rocks.
• Flowers.
• An industrial landscape.
• Your tent illuminated inside by a flashlight.
• Or ?
You can add light to the foreground by choosing the right time of day, to be described below.
Or, add light with a flashlight, flash, car headlights, or ?
Go to Painting with Light.
But, when you're first photographing star trails, don't worry about the foreground.
Most people live in or near a city.
So, night isn't night, for most photographers.
You have to travel away from cities to do star photography.
If you can see the Milky Way, it's dark enough.
A crescent moon can be photographed with stars, as it's brightness is closer to that of stars.
A full moon is very bright, and stars are very dim.
You can't photograph both at the same time.
A clear sky is usually preferred.
High clouds can add a hazy look, though.
Check the weather.
The stars will be more clear if the humidity is low.
Bring along:
1) A flashlight and/or a head-band light.
A red-light setting on the head-band light reduces the time it takes for your eyes to reacclimatize to darkness.
2) A timer with illumination.
4) Some hot or cold drinks, and snacks.
5) Some entertainment, such as a Book, music, DVD, and so forth.
6) A cushion, chair, or sleeping bag.
6) A friend or significant other.
7) A tripod.
A tripod is not required, but certainly is handy.
Without a tripod, set the camera on a pillow, bean bag, or ?
When using a tripod, place something bright at the base of each leg, so you don't bump the tripod during the exposure.
Set up your camera and tripod, and compose the image, before it gets dark.
Otherwise, you won't be able to see through your camera.
If you don't. the horizon may be crooked, there may something in the frame you didn't expect, and so forth.
Be sure you know the way back to your car in the middle of the night.
Charge your battery.
Long exposure times will consume battery power quickly.
If you have a spare, bring it along.
An external battery is preferred, such as one located in a hand grip for the camera, or a battery like the Digital Camera Battery.
The optimum power supply is an AC power supply.
Use a long extension cord, or an inverter connected to your car's 12v power outlet, such as the cigarette lighter.
Save your photographs using the raw file format.
You'll be able to tweak the exposure more effectively.
If your camera doesn't have the raw file format, use the highest quality JPEG file format setting.
Realize that when you zoom your variable-aperture zoom lens (most zooms), the lens opening can change by one stop.
Let's say you have a zoom that goes from 18mm, wide angel, to 70mm, telephoto.
If you're at the wide-angle focal length of 18mm, and zoom to to the telephoto focal length of 70mm, the lens opening changes by one stop smaller (less light).
Focus on something far away, and then switch the lens to manual focus using the switch on or near the lens.
Don't confuse the M of manual focus, with the M of manual exposure on the exposure mode dial.
Locate the manual-focus ring on the lens.
The manual-focus ring isn't the zoom ring.
The zoom ring changes the lens focal length.
The manual-focus ring, which is often at the end of the lens, is narrower.
You may need to tape the manual-focus ring to keep it from shifting during long exposures.
If your lens has image stabilization, turn it off.
You'll save power, and may eliminate a shift in the focus during long exposures.
When using mirror lockup, the first press of the shutter release flips the mirror up.
Then, with this vibration source eliminated, a second press of the shutter release opens the shutter.
Because star-trail photographs use long shutter speeds, there's no need to lock the mirror up.
Use the Daylight white balance setting, the sun icon.
The tungsten setting, the light-bulb icon, will add blue to the scene.
If you're saving the photographs using the raw file format, you can set the white balance when you process the files.
Set the ISO to a low or medium setting.
Higher ISO settings will have more noise, making the black night sky gray with anomalous specs of magenta and green.
Newer cameras will have less noise than older cameras.
Experiment with higher ISO settings.
Set the exposure mode dial to M, Manual exposure.
Set the lens opening to f/4.
As mentioned, wider apertures will produce brighter star trails, and smaller apertures, darker star trails.
Experiment with shutter speeds between ten minutes and one hour.
The star trails will be longer with longer shutter speeds.
If there's light pollution, use shorter shutter speeds.
Here are some suggested exposure settings, at ISO 200, with a focal length of 50mm.
| f/1.4 or f/1.8 | f/2 | f/2.8 | f/4 | |
| Shutter Speed | 8 min. | 15 min. | 30 min. | 60 min. |
Trip the shutter with the camera's self-timer or a remote shutter release, described below.
Your camera has shutter speeds up to thirty seconds.
That's not long enough for star-trail photography.
Your camera may have a Bulb setting, which may allow exposures times of up to thirty minutes.
When using the Bulb setting, the shutter stays open as long as the shutter release remains depressed.
To use the Bulb setting, do the following.
1) Set the exposure mode dial to M, Manual exposure.
2) Turn the knob to scroll to lower-and-lower shutter speeds until you reach Bulb.
You can't hold the shutter release down for very long.
And, if you were to do so, you'd disturb the camera.
So, you need to use a remote release.
The Nikon ML-L3 Remote Control can be used with the Bulb setting.
Do the following.
1) Set the exposure mode dial to M.
2) Turn the knob to scroll to lower-and-lower shutter speeds until you reach Bulb.
3) Press and hold the Shooting-mode button, and turn the knob until you see the remote-release icon.
Bulb may disappear from the LCD screen, replaced by two dashes.
4) Aim the remote release at the front of the camera, press, and release.
The shutter will open.
5) Press again to close the shutter.
If you have a Nikon D90, have a look at the Nikon MC-DC2 Remote Cord.
Check for other remotes, new remotes, and to make sure the remote you choose is compatible with your camera.
Canon has two wireless remotes, the Canon RC-5 Wireless Remote Controllerthe Canon RC-1 Wireless Remote Controller.
Also, have a look at the wired Canon RS-60E3 Remote Switch.
Check for other remotes, new remotes, and to make sure the remote you choose is compatible with your camera.
If you pursue star trail photography, you may want to purchase a programmable remote.
Nikon Mc-36 Multi-Function Remote
Canon TC-80N3 Timer Remote Control
If it's cold, keep spare batteries inside your coat.
Avoid breathing on the camera to prevent condensation.
Dew may form on your lens.
Try:
• A lens hood.
A lens hood also blocks the light from your flashlight and head-band light.
• A Giotto Rocket blower.
• A battery-operated fan.
• A hand warmer.
• Placing the camera and tripod inside a tent, with the lens protruding through the zipped-up door.
• A heating device like those from Kendricks.
If, when you're finished, the camera will be going from the cold outdoors into the warm indoors, prevent condensation from forming.
Put the camera in a plastic bag until it warms up.
During twenty-four hours, stars "turn" in a complete circle.
A circle is 360 degrees.
360° ÷ 24 Hours = 15°
So, star trails will be 15 degrees in length for every hour of exposure.
You'll want to expose for at least one hour, and probably, longer.
If you're in the northern hemisphere, point your camera at the North Star (Polaris) to produce circular star trails.
This is because the North Star is on the Earth's rotational axis.
To find the North Star, locate the Big Dipper in the sky.
The two stars that form the side of the basin, at the end of the dipper, point to the North Star.
The North Star is the last star in the handle of the Little Dipper.
Go to The Big and Little Dippers.
When you point your camera away from the North Star, the star trails will appear as arcs.
You can use late or early light as fill light for the foreground.
Also, the sky may be more blue.
Start the exposure about ninety minutes after sunset or before sunrise.
Likewise, start the exposure about sixty minutes after moonset or before moonrise.
There's less chance of an airplane flying across the frame after 2:00 A.M.
By having the stars at the end of their trails, the constellations will be visible.
To produce stars at the end of the trails, use a small lens opening for the main exposure.
Then, block the lens, without disturbing the camera, for about five minutes.
Finally, uncover the lens without disturbing the camera.
Expose for about five minutes.
This will create a small gap between the trail and the star.
If you're doing lots of start photography, consider using light-pollution filters.
Go to Jerry Lodriguss' Filters for Astrophotography.
You can take multiple exposures, one-after-another, of the sky.
Then, you "stack" them with a specialized program, or with Photoshop or Photoshop Elements.
Photographs made from multiple exposures have less noise.
Image Stacker last updated in 2005
Star Trails Photoshop Action Last updated 2006
Stacking Star Trails: Tips & Techniques Harold Davis, 2008
How To: Star trails – Stacking with StarTrails.exe Adam Currie, 2009
Star Trails, Digital Style; Exposure and Stacking Techniques Art Rosch, 2007
Complete Sun and Moon Data for One Day U.S. Naval Observatory
Sun/Moon Calculator Jeff Conrad
timenaddate.com:
Moonrise and Moonset Calculator
Photographing Star Trails Dan Heller
Star Trails Flickr group
The Twilight Hour – Photographing Star Trails and Static Stars Floris van Breugel